In order to curtail any more rusting on the triangular frame, I knocked out all of the loose rust and scrapped the rest of it to remove as much rust as possible.
In each of the three corners, there is a downward-facing "bowl" in the metal frame where the support posts extend upward. The agitator bolt on my washer just seems to make a thudded click sound when I try to unscrew it.
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It also gave me solid metal to drill a new hole for the suspension spring.
The point here is not the innovative repair - the point is that the machine had been leaking for a long time and rusted out the lower rear frame and suspension spring!
None of the hoses were leaking - no evidence of corrosion or water mineral residue at any of the hose fittings. I studied the parts diagram for the washer tub assembly and concluded the source of the leak almost had to be the outer tub's Centerpost Gasket.
It was really the only part left that came in direct contact with water in the otherwise sealed outer tub. When I was checking for leaks before and after I swapped out the pump (about 1-1/2 years ago), I noticed the rear lower frame of the machine was almost totally rusted out and the Suspension Spring was was about to rust through also.
These "bowls" had been collecting water for years, hence the extensive rust. Rotate the agitator until the grooves in the agitator match the grooves on the shaft, and push the agitator down. Using the socket wrench (with an extension) or nutdriver, insert the stud and seal through the agitator, into the shaft, and tighten. Be sure the round gasket is in the groove in the barrier cap. Holding the agitator doesn't stop the bolt from spinning when unscrewing, it still spins in circles.
To combat the rust and prevent any further rust I heated up the hot glue gun and I must have used (5) 12-inch sticks of hot glue to fill in the bowls, cover up all the rust, and actually made them convex so water will run outward and not get trapped if it ever leaks again. I then used 0000 steel wool on the centerpost to remove some minor corrosion so the new gasket would seal. Note: The barrier cap must be pushed down past the holes in the mover, so the liquid from the dispenser can flow out of the holes. Push the barrier cap and gasket all the way down into the agitator mover. Press down on the liquid fabric softener dispenser or cap, which ever you have, until it is all the way down on the agitator. If I drill the top off of the bolt, I still won't have any way to unscrew it?
Medium cam kit (this page) is the most popular and is about 2-1/4 inches. If the shaft is bad (rare), either call an appliance repair company to repair this or replace the complete gearcase yourself.
There is also a long cam agitator kit 285748 and short cam agitator kit 285809.
(The actual visible water on the concrete floor only manifested itself about a year and a half ago, but based on the extensive rust, it had to have been leaking much longer than that.) Back to fixing the leak... (I rebuilt the agitator section too, with a new Medium Cam Agitator Repair Kit.